WOW - What amazing waves. Caught 3 incredible right handers this morning. Big fast take offs, long wally rides on perfect overhead screamers. Well happy.
Hit beach at around 9.30 am. Looked okish then tide came in and I caught two fabbo rights all the way into beach. Makes up for poor, dumpy waves at Bawley point at weekend. Stoked.
Good swell , but a bit tired after boxercise. Caught one wicked powerful left, about the same as yesterday. Board hit me in hip. OK though. Fell off boomer yestreday, still a bit pissed off, but we are headed down coast tomorrow.
Yestreday 11th June was first surf in nearly two weeks. Boy it was good, felt amazing all day. Today the surf was smaller , but caught three amazingly good little right handers. Surfing on the single fin has really improved my surfing.