::: Easter Monday 2008

Down beach at 6.3o. Look pretty ordinary , pissing down. Nearly went home, Geoff (another Mc Coy rider) said, "I'm going for a paddle, so I thought, why not. It was poor at the st end of bra, for 10 Min's, then it started coming in good. First wave was a ripper of a right, steep take off, few nice turns, all the way in. Walked along beach to sth end channel and paddled out again. Scored some fabbo waves, particularly delicious left. 7/10. :: Medicine ball head man snaked me on one, so I dropped in on him. He was not happy, and told me to "Surf over there" I always ignore pricks like that, and will thoroughly enjoy dropping in on the aggressive little cu*t next time. Nice south African guy paddled over and said the greedy little blighter always snakes people, and he was well pleased when I charged the wave and did not pull off. By about 8 am the best waves were gone. Richard paddled out, but was struggling on his new short board. Also chatted to a nice guy called Sam ( has a one yr old boy called Thomas) He had just got back from a trip to Byron. Best surf since that amazing wave 2 weeks ago. Stoked!!!